I grew up in Great Neck, Long Island in the 1960s. At that time our family dining spot of choice, for special occasions, was Patricia Murphy's Candlelight Restaurant in Manhasset. They were famous for their popover rolls, distributed from baskets by gingham clad waitresses. I notice these popovers are still mentioned enthusiastically on the internet. For good reason.

The other day I was recalling to my wife, Bonita, a typical Candlight menu--at least what I think I remember of one. I'd start out with a "heart of iceberg lettuce" and Russian Dressing. My entree was chopped steak and gravy with potatoes au gratin and string beans. Dessert: a strawberry parfait.

My father had a preference for starting out with the tomato juice cocktail, moving on to broiled scallops, then lemon meringue pie for dessert.

It was unashamedly comfort food. Very American. Very good, in fact.

It seems like it was only later that the average run of upper middle class American diners developed a penchant for self-consciously European bistro or trattoria food accompanied by amusing little wines.